Cycling in Cuba

Cuba is one of the greatest places to cycle. The roads are great (mostly concrete), very little traffic, friendly people and it’s as safe. They say the crime is almost non-existence. It’s not an expensive country and you can have a great time with less than CUC $ 40 a day, which equates to around UK £25 (March 2008)

I had 18 days off and I planned to do 1000 kilometers plus and also test my fitness level.

I wanted to cover the east, center and the west. I also wanted to do few dives and enjoy the sun, sand as you don’t get that much here in London.

I tend to avoid tourist areas especially big with package tours. I wasn’t keen on going to Veradero, which has great white sandy beach but gated resorts where most Cubans are not allowed (until March 2008).

Language:
Many Cubans don’t speak English, however they have great patience. They can wait and listen to you while you search your phrase book for words. I speak no Spanish but I had good conversation with most of them through the Phrasebook. Now I can flirt a bit in Spanish!!

Accommodation:
Casa Particulars (B&B) is really good, homely and worth a stay in Cuba. It’s run by Cuban families where they get an opportunity to earn CUC $. It usually cost around CUC $20- $25 for accommodation, with breakfast for $3, and dinner for $7/$8. Some Casa Particulars i stayed in are were good as any boutique hotel with a homely twist.

The food is heaps better than in restaurants. The serving is unbelievable and most of the time I could never finish it. For lunch you can go to a sandwich store and grab a sandwich, refresco, for less than a $1. I usually tip generously in developing countries as they are the ones who really need it and they really feel grateful.

Currency:
Its bit crazy in Cuba, that they have two currencies. One is a CUC (convertible peso) which lets you buy anything and is mainly for tourist. The other is CUP (national peso) which is mainly for Cubans. I usually carried CUC and few $$ worth of CUP.

What to pack:
Normal hybrid road bikes are good for Cuba. I took a hardtail with road tyres. Thin tyres might be a problem if you decide to take a detour, or visit some tobacco farms or the beach.

I took two side waterproof panniers with around 7kgs each. I am a light packer and my rule of thumb is: if you can carry all your stuff for two hours without much of a problem then your packing is good.

Take the essentials such as few extra tubes; puncture repair kid, all purpose toolkit (No bigger than a Swiss knife), pump, spokes, extra brake cable, chain repair kit, chain link, chain lubricants and a good saddle. Take a spanner as you will have to remove the paddles to get your cycle on the plane. Extra tyres, sleeping bags, water filter, Swiss knife are all look cool but useless gadgets.

For shorts, I am not big on Lycra, I like those boardies, so I can dip in the water if it gets too hot and they dry quickly. It’s a good idea to get few good sports (running, cycling, tennis) T-Shirts. In hot weather I tend to go with sandals than shoes.

Also Bicycling Cuba by Wally and Barbara Smith is a great book.

How to take a bicycle on a plane:
Most Airlines take your cycle for free. You will have to deflate the tyres and remove the paddles. Before you check-in remove the paddles, and put it in panniers. I also remove the saddle as it’s easier to steal one and you don’t want to cycle without one, do you? If you check in and remove the paddles, then you might have problems carrying those.

I took Cubana Airlines: London-Holguin, Havana-London, as I wanted to start my journey from Holguin. Don’t expect much service, or in-flight entertainment. My flight was delayed by 12 hours and by the time they got to the end they ran out of food and wine ;-) .

Map of my journey: Total Distance of 1064 kms

Region: The Orient

Day 1
London – Holguin

Highlights:

• 12 hours delayed with Cubana
• They ran out of wine and non-veg by the time they got to the last rows.

Day 2
Holguin - Guradalavaca – 58 kms

Overview:
Easy

Highlights:

• Guradalava is a great beach and you will also be enjoying the beach with the locals
• Try Mojito at main stall in the beach ( one of the best i had in whole of Cuba)
• I stayed in Isazul hotel as there are no Casa Particulars.

Day 3
Gurdalavaca- Rio Cabonico - 128 kms

Overview:
Easy, Mostly Flat

Highlights:

• Great to see people waiting timelessly for the bus/ truck or a tractor in the cross roads
• Try the “guarapo” (sugarcane juice) it will give you enough energy to get you going
• There are no legal Casa Perticular here but Cubans are more than happy to let you stay at their house for some $$.
• If you can make it try reaching Sagua De Tanamo. Its another 20 KMS and there is a hotel. It will also help you a lot the next day.

Day 4
Rio Cabonico – Barocoa - 145 kms

Overview:
Fair few climbs and can really get tuff before Baracoa
Gets really tuff towards the end because of the climb
Fluid, fluid fluid to survive this route, Buy whenever you see one

Highlights:

• Sagua De Tanamo is a nice little town
• Big nickel factory in Moa and the whole area is a no photography zone (because of pollution)
• Baracoa is a beautiful city. It is bit of a run down for a city with such a historical significance (First city Columbus landed)
• Visit "Cafe Chocolate" and get a feel for a real Communist Cafe and the closed society
• Music in Baracoa is one of the best in Cuba
  

Day 5
Barocoa – San Antonio Del Sur - 96 kms then the same day took a bus to Santiago De Cuba

Overview:
30 kms of steep climb ( from sea level to almost 1400 meters)
Then another 20-30 kms of downhill
Flat after that

Highlights:

• La Farola is a very picturesque valley and it’s worth the climb
• "Cucurucho” - try those for an energy boost
• Local chocolates made of all cocoa tastes really good (no preservatives or chemical). Damn I should have brought few here ;-(
• While riding downhill try to see how fast you can go. Fastest I did was 58km/hr
• Go for a skin dip whenever you see a beach
• You can catch bus (Viazul) to Santiago de Cuba at 4 PM from San Antonia De Cuba to save time. It costs around $6 and will save you 2 days journey / ride which is similar to the one you covered in the last 40 kms. As I covered the best part of the ride, I just took the bus to save time

Day 6
Santiago De Cuba - Playa Sibano - 57 kms
Evening Bus from Santiago De Cuba to Trinidad

Highlights:

• Enjoy the afternoon at Playa Sibano where you can go for a scuba dive.
• Santiago as is the 2nd biggest city in Cuba. Its got the new and the old town. The old town has few cafe's that play great music.
• You can take an evening bus (Viazul) to which will arrive at Trinidad 6 in the morning. Try staying around Plaza Centrole in Trinidad.

Region Central (Trinidad)

Day 7
Trinidad – Playa Ancon – La Boca – Trinidad 65 kms

Overview:
Easy

Highlights:
Playa Ancon is a beautiful beach. You can also go snorkeling or Scuba and see black coral.

Day 8
Trinidad – Rest

Highlights:

• Enjoy the stone cobbled streets of Trinidad
• There are numerous galleries that sell painting, sculptures which would easily make it to the Tate Modern and the prices are still in the 70’s.
• Try enjoying local meal at a Peso Shop. You don’t get much choice but the rice with beans, salads, fired chicken or pork and a "cherveza" is a steal.
• Evening at plaza central for music, salsa under the stars

Day 9
Trinidad – Havana

Overview:
If you catch a morning bus to Havana, you can enjoy the afternoon wandering around

Highlights:

• Havana Vieja is a nice area to stay as it has few plaza’s, old colonial architecture, restaurants and cafes
  
  

Havana , Pinar Del Rio Region

Day 10
Havana - Playa Altura 141 kms

Overview:
Flat till you reach around Les Terres
Few climbs, roller-coaster around Les Terres and heat can be a problem
Flat after crossing Les Terres and as you are riding west sun can be in your face

Highlights:

• Take the northern route and enjoy Miramar Suburb (where all the rich lived and still is a beautiful area)
• The northern route has less traffic and more scenic than the Autopista or CC. you can go via les terres valley which has fair few climbs and is bit of a roller coaster.
• Most people stop over at Bahia Honda, however just after 20 kms there is a Casa Particular near the beach. It is a farm house and the hosts are really friendly.

Day 11
Playa Altura- Cayo Lavisa – Vinales 101 kms

Overview:
Few small hills but its fairly easy

Highlights:

• You can stop over at Cayo Lavisa for lunch andsnorkel but for that you might want to start early
• The route is more scenic as you are closer the Vinales valley it’s beautiful
• Enjoy fresh fruit juice, fruits from the local vendors

Day 12
Vinales Valley 51 Kms

Overvie:
Easy / Medium

Highlights:

• You can take a horse or go off road and visit the farm and a tobacco house
• St Thomas cave is beautiful and have left it to its natural state. For some reason most tourists avoid this, maybe because it takes longer to explore the cave.
• Enjoy a swim and the sunset from one of the hotels ( Hotel Los Jazmines is niceand its only CUC $2 )
  

Day 13 Vinales - Rest

Day 14
Vinales – San Diago De los Banos – Saroa 121 kms

Overview:
Moderate climb around San Diago Los Banos then mostly flat
Big climb before reaching Saroa

Highlights:

• This route is one of the best and really scenic if you take one through “Parque Nacional La Guira”
• Stop over at San Diagolos Banos for Lunch
• Saroa is a beautiful place to end your journey after the last climb ;-)
• Visit "Orquideario" (Orchid Garden) in Saroa

Day 15
Saroa – Les Terres – Havana 103 kms

Overview:
Bit of a roller coaster to reach Les Terres, then its mostly flat

Highlights:

• Go through Les Terres and enjoy the dip in the natural hole. They say its therapeutic but I am not so sure about that ;-)
• Take the northern route, so you can enjoy the “Playa Santa Fe” just before reaching Havana

Day 16
Havana - Vedado, Miramar and Tropicana

Highlights:

• Tropicana is a must see. It is around CUC $ 70 for a good seat but worth the price. It is Heralded as a "Paradise Under the Stars," the Tropicana became known for its showgirls, conga sounds, domino tournaments and flashy, spectacular productions
• “Copollo” - People stand in line for almost an hour just for an ice-cream. There are not many flavors and after such a long wait, even Vanilla flavored ice-cream tasted so good. (Havana)
• Cementerio Cristobal Colon: One of the beautiful cemetery I have been to. Amazing sculpture, graves and tombs.
  

Day 17
Havana Veija

Highlights:

• Parque Centrale
• Plaza Cathedral, Plaza Viaja
  
• Capitol
  
• Malecon
• Cigar factory
• For others you can follow a guidebook

Eat and Drink:

• l– Daiquiri at a Floridita
• Mojito at Habana Libre
• Ice Cream at “Copollo”
• Cajitas around Vedado
• Cubano pizza from a Peso store
• Dinner at La Terraza de Cojímar

Day 18 Havana- London

Highlights:

• Its better buying a cigar, rums in the airport before you enter the immigration. Duty free is expensive than the stores for cigars
• Carry your own food and drink for the plane ;-)

Total kilometers of 1064 and it has been one of my favorite holiday.